Most of the focus for curly and coily hair tends to be on moisturising, styling and protecting strands from damage. But what about the health of the scalp?
A healthy scalp is the foundation for hair growth, yet many people overlook it, especially those with textured hair. Due to its unique structure, curly and coily hair needs special attention, and when the scalp is neglected, issues like dryness, inflammation and buildup can lead to hair thinning and loss.
To understand why scalp health matters and how to prevent hair loss, we spoke with Kameese Davis, CEO and founder of Nylah’s Naturals, a science-led haircare brand that focuses on the biological needs of textured hair.
Why Your Scalp Holds the Key to Healthy Hair
Unlike straight hair, curly and coily strands are naturally more fragile. Their twists and bends make it harder for sebum (the scalp’s natural oil) to travel down the shaft, often leaving hair dry, brittle and prone to breakage.
This is why scalp care is essential, explains Davis:
“For a long time, scalp health has been misunderstood, particularly for Black women. I always emphasise that a healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. A well-balanced scalp is clean, free from product buildup, dead skin and environmental debris, allowing hair to grow without obstruction. Many women with curly and textured hair have been led to believe that oiling the scalp is the best way to hydrate it, but this isn’t the case. Oil is too thick to penetrate the scalp for true hydration, and because the scalp naturally produces its own oils, excessive oiling can lead to buildup, which may disrupt hair growth. Instead, the focus should be on gentle cleansing, moisture retention and creating a scalp environment that supports strong, healthy hair from the root.”
A healthy scalp = thriving hair follicles. When the scalp is well-maintained, blood circulation improves, delivering essential nutrients to the follicles. The hair growth cycle functions properly, which reduces excessive shedding, and strands emerge stronger, healthier and less prone to breakage.
The Biggest Scalp Problems That Cause Hair Loss
Curly and coily hair types are especially prone to scalp issues that can disrupt growth and contribute to hair loss. Here are the most common culprits:
Dryness & Flakiness
Because sebum has a harder time traveling down curly hair, scalp dryness is common. This can lead to flaking, itching and irritation, and over time, constant scratching can weaken follicles, causing hair to shed prematurely.
Product Buildup
Heavy oils, creams and gels help define curls, but they accumulate on the scalp without proper cleansing. This buildup clogs hair follicles, blocks new growth and can lead to thinning or excessive shedding.
Scalp Conditions & Inflammation
Conditions like seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff), scalp psoriasis and acne cause redness, irritation and excessive oil production, damaging follicles and disrupting normal hair growth cycles.
Poor Blood Circulation
Healthy blood flow is critical for strong hair growth. Tight hairstyles, inflammation and lack of scalp stimulation can restrict circulation, weakening follicles and leading to hair loss over time.
Expert Tips for a Healthy Scalp & Stronger Hair
Cleanse Regularly—But Gently
An unclean scalp can lead to clogged follicles and irritation, but washing too often with harsh shampoos can cause dryness. The goal is to cleanse using gentle products without disrupting the scalp’s natural moisture balance.
“A clean scalp is essential for healthy hair growth, but frequent shampooing can strip the scalp of its natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation. Instead, opt for a gentle cleansing routine that removes product buildup and environmental debris without disrupting your scalp’s natural balance. Using a sulphate-free shampoo or co-washing between washes can help maintain a clean yet hydrated scalp, ensuring optimal conditions for hair growth,” – says Davis.
Ditch the Oils—Choose Real Hydration
Many with textured hair assume that oiling the scalp is the best way to keep it moisturized, but oil doesn’t provide true hydration. Hydration comes from water-based products, penetrating the scalp and supporting moisture retention. Lightweight, water-based serums—such as Nylah’s Naturals Flourish Restorative Hair Serum—is an optimal choice because it provides hydration without clogging hair follicles or weighing down the hair.
Minimise Scalp Tension & Over-Manipulation
Tight styles, rough detangling and constant manipulation can irritate the scalp and weaken follicles.
“Protective styles are great for minimising manipulation but must be installed correctly to avoid scalp tension. Styles that are too tight can cause traction alopecia—pulling on the hair follicles so much that the hair is literally pulled from the scalp. Opt for looser braids, twists or updos that protect your hair without putting excessive strain on your scalp, allowing it to remain healthy and stress-free,” – concludes Davis.
Treat Scalp Issues Early
Don’t ignore the signs if you’re noticing dandruff, excessive shedding, scalp inflammation or breakouts. Early treatment is key to preventing long-term damage. A dermatologist or trichologist can suggest targeted treatments or medicated shampoos to help manage scalp conditions and restore its natural balance.
Your scalp health determines your hair’s health. A healthy scalp lays the foundation for curls and coils to thrive. Keeping it healthy starts with simple habits like gentle cleansing, water-based hydration and reducing scalp tension.
