It has been an interesting Fall/Winter 2013 season for menswear designers. With a return to classics (kind of) and comfortable favourites (a la cashmere and pj’s), designers have been using their foundation pieces as a creative launch pad; giving them new life through texture, colour and pattern. Menswear designers are reaffirming their traditional esthetic and have successfully brought a casual and wearable sensibility to menswear this season. This issue we look at four perennial favourite designers – Hermes, Nautica, Dries Van Noten and Burberry.
Designer Veronique Nichanian upheld Hermes unprecedented standard of creating exquisite wearable garments from the finest materials. The pallet consists of black and navy, complemented by hints of lemon yellow and raspberry pink. Timeless pieces were given new life with immaculate tailoring and a number of stylish attributes. Cashmere jogging pants, crocodile cardigans and a reversible astrakhan jacket showcases Hermes ability to turn classic looks into ultra-luxurious, high fashion sportswear.
Inspired by Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton’s nautical expeditions, Creative Director, Chris Cox titled the collection ‘Black Sail’. The garments reflect the brands classic aesthetic of athletic seafaring designs. Cox started the collection with jackets, coats and parkas in primary colours, and transitioned into a variety of clean, sophisticated, monochromatic styled outfits. Cable knit sweaters, snug wool pants, cashmere anoraks, pea coats and bomber jackets are seen throughout the collection. Faux fur accessories, trimmed jackets, anoraks and blazers present fashionable separates for all tastes.
Dries Van Noten
Designed to be the boyfriend to his grunge inspired women’s S/S 2013 collection – the Dries Van Noten F/W 2013 collection has a laidback, off-stage, rock star vibe. The looks reflect clothing thrown on the morning after a wild night – an effortless combination of structured and slouchy pieces. Dries incorporated luxurious Paisley patterns into casual day wear. The use of leather sandals worn with socks, and denim painted to look like leather boots brought the collections theme to the forefront.
Christopher Bailey, Creative Director at Burberry has been revamping the brand since 2001 adding a modern, unique edge to the classic heritage of the brand. The F/W 2013 collection is called “I Love Classics”, a theme reflected in the designs through the use of the Burberry check, cashmere sweaters, simplistic trench coats and heart prints on the foundational pieces. The title was also evident in the simplistic colour palette featuring olive green, camel, black and brown, all reflecting the admirable look of Burberry. Minimal outerwear was contrasted by heavy wool fabrics and transparent latex. Hints of leopard and zebra prints in tan and black were incorporated into the classic conglomerate through lapels, sunglasses and Winklepicker shoes.