International runways and city streets around the world share a common theme this season – the structured coat. With several interpretations of this look, some frequent elements include texture, architecture and a deceptive appearance of heaviness.
Philip Lim’s collection is titled Sono Mama, a phrase meaning ‘as you are’ in Japanese. The collection reflects the phrase by showing Lim’s personality through style. The coats are defined by simple silhouettes mixed with bold standout accents and textures in shades of black, gray and teal.
Textured fabrics were also continuously used in Ann Yee’s Appalachia Elegance collection. Inspirations were drawn from Black Mountain College, an art school situated in the mountains of North Carolina that originated in the 30s. The sophisticated collection was a turning point, as it was Yee’s first time incorporating outerwear and bringing a more mature aesthetic to her designs.
Outerwear specialist, Calvin Klein, used dense fabrics and exaggerated shoulders which were complemented by an air of sexuality and power. The collection brought a sense of nostalgia from Creative Director, Francisco Costa’s favourite movie, Ivan’s Childhood – a Russian film about an orphan in WW2. The look focuses on strong utilitarian influences with a touch of femininity.
Helmut Lang chose to take his collection to a very artistic place. ‘Black and White’ a Picasso exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery last fall inspired Lang’s use of detailing and artistic structure.
Many forms of art have been instrumental in transforming this season’s coat designs. With designers personal inspirations refl cted in their collections, there is an overall similarity of structure. Innovative attributes and accents on coats are fundamental characteristics on this wardrobe essential.
By: Paula Barcante and Josie Saldat – NICHE Magazine Fall 2013